By RUTH FANTASIA Food editor

Caption: Luanne M. Ferris/Times Union

THE HIGHLANDS RESTAURANT & TAVERN in Knox offers diners in its rustic tavern, above, and more formal restaurant ,the same extensive menu.

The Highlands is one of those out-of-the-way rural eateries that by necessity has developed broad-spectrum appeal. Located in a big old house in the hills southwest of Altamont, the Highlands offers a wide variety of dishes that will satisfy everyone from the baseball-watching bar patron in the tavern to the family celebrating a special occasion in the dining room. And they're all ordering off the same bountiful menu.      Three of us started in the tavern, a rustic room with big wooden bar, a slate floor and patio furniture. The drinks are big. Brand-name vodka-tonics and whiskey sours were served in 16-ounce goblets - a major bargain at only $4.50 each - and they weren't lacking in spirits. We'd no sooner gotten our drinks when our table was ready, and we were escorted into the dining room. Although more formal than the tavern, the dining room isn't stuffy. It's decorated in Williamsburg-grandmother style - Colonial florals with a lot of practical Early American furniture, including sideboards and china cabinets strategically placed for servers' convenience.      Appetizers range from shrimp to chicken wings. An order of calamari ($9.50) came with both rings and tentacles, all lightly battered and deftly fried. They were accompanied by an ordinary marinara. Shrimp Berardi ($9.50), jumbo shrimp stuffed with smoked mozzarella and wrapped in proscuitto then grilled and served with a chardonnay cream sauce, was pleasing but not extraordinary.      The most interesting appetizer was the asiago and olive "tidbits" ($7.50), oval patties of asiago cheese and black olives mixed with cream cheese then coated in airy Japanese bread crumbs and lightly fried. The rich, savory bites had a hot and gooey decadence, and with four to a plate there was more than enough to share.      Those not wanting a full dinner can choose from items such as a pulled-pork barbecue sandwich with fries ($7.50) or entree salads including Caesar with chicken ($9.50). But the entrees, served with warm bread, a salad or soup, and vegetables, are good values, too.      The soups we sampled included New England clam chowder ($2.25 per cup, a la carte) and French onion ($4.25 a la carte, $2 with dinner). They came from the kitchen piping hot and chock-full of ingredients. The chowder was especially heavy with clams and potatoes, while the broth was creamy yet light. The onion was flavorful, not overly salted and relatively light on the cheese, which meant we had plenty to add texture and taste but weren't spooning up stringy glop.      Entree prices start at $13 for liver and onions and rise to $27 for a beef tenderloin, and there's plenty in between. The dozen regular menu items include fish, pork and chicken. The only thing that seems to be missing is a vegetarian offering. In addition to the regular menu, there are specials each evening.      We ordered a rib-eye steak ($22), which arrived perfectly medium rare. It obviously wasn't prime beef, given the amount of fat and connective tissue, but it wasn't nearly as expensive, either. It came with gnocchi, one of the starches of the evening, the little potato dumplings soaking up the flavor of anything placed near them. These had been sauteed until lightly browned, adding to their goodness.      Sea scallops are offered blackened, breaded and fried or broiled ($22). We chose blackened, and about six of the tender, meaty morsels were served with a side of rice and a cooling mango coulis. It was a nice dish, but you can find comparable scallops at other restaurants for a few dollars less.      The frutti di mare ($18), a mixture of seafood in marinara sauce over pasta, was a better value. The clams and mussels were plentiful, although there were only two pieces of calamari, my guest's favorites, and the shrimp were the little bean-sized ones that you can buy frozen.      The dessert menu includes a variety of mostly house-made offerings. We three chocoholics managed to each have one of the chocolates offered: chocolate cake ($5), chocolate mousse ($4) and chocolate-cherry truffle ($4.75). Of the three, the truffle was the most interesting, sort of a ganache tart with bits of dark, sweet cherries scattered in the filling.      Dinner for the three of us, including five cocktails, tax and gratuity, came to $171.10.      Although there's nothing extraordinary about it, The Highlands offers good meals at reasonable prices. Its broad menu well serves a community where there aren't many restaurants, and it's a nice place to stop if you're out on a leisurely drive.      Ruth Fantasia can be reached at 454-5362 or by e-mail at rfantasia@timesunion.com.

<%=hi%>Matters of Taste

Factbox:  <%=hi%>The Highlands Restaurant & Tavern      1670 Berne Altamont Road, Knox           Phone: 872-1938      Web: http://www.highlandsrestaurant.com      Credit Cards: AE, M, V, Disc.      Hours: 4 to 9 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 2 to 8 p.m. Sunday.      Parking/access: Plenty of on-site parking. Tavern is fully accessible. A few stairs to the dining room, and the hallway is narrow.      Attire: Most dinner guests wear casual clothing.      Prices: Appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches average $7; entrees, $18; desserts, $4.50. Children's menu available.      Food and beverage (Two and a half): Something for everyone but nothing exceptional.      Service (Three stars): Given with friendly smiles and enthusiasm.      Atmosphere (Two and a half stars): Casual tavern to grandma's dining room.      Overall rating: Two and a half stars      Key: One to four stars - four excellent, two average. Overall rating an average of the three categories with emphasis on food. Past reviews available online at http://timesunion.com/life/restaurants.